Saturday, August 15, 2009

The Holocaust: Remembered?

Sorry to include such a depressing topic, but I think it's a very important subject to talk about, seeing as how it's such a huge issue in German history.

Ever since I've known Pascal and become more interested in Germany and German culture I've wondered: what effect does the Holocaust have on the German psyche? Is it ignored? acknowledged? are the Germans (in general) ashamed or indifferent? Through what I've learned in classes and from talking with actual Germans, I've pieced together this picture: the Germans fully acknowledge responsibility for the Holocaust; and, very importantly, they acknowledge that it was not just the Nazis or those directly involved with the killings who were guilty, but really the whole German "volk" (people) through their direct or tacit support of the NS-regime. If you think about it, that is a HUGE weight on the collective conscience. I know that sometimes I feel uncomfortable about my country and society's past with slavery and segregation (and continuing struggle with racism); can you imagine having the knowledge that your country, maybe even your own parents or grandparents, perpetrated genocide on the largest scale the world has ever seen, and in a supposedly "civilized" country in the "modern" era at that?

I have to say, I was very impressed by the official treatment of the topic in Germany. German students told me that in their textbook in school the topic of the Nazis and the Holocaust was not glossed over or avoided at all, but dealt with very directly. And in the House of History in Bonn all of the facts and atrocities are presented dispassionately, without excuses but also without excessive self-flagellation. The Germans, especially of the younger generations, do not walk around with a "mea culpa" attitude every day. Some people have suggested they should, as penance I guess, but I find that frankly ridiculous. I don't believe in the idea of "collective guilt", i.e. that all Germans down to the present day are guilty, simply by virtue of being born German. The younger Germans tend to regard the notion of collective guilt in the same way I do. For them, the Holocaust is not a daily issue. They recognize the full atrocity of it and that it was their country that was behind it, but they don't feel it has any bearing on their lives.

Now, to a certain extent, I feel this is good. They don't need to mentally beat themselves up for something that happened before they were born, or even before their parents were born. However, this disconnect also leads to complacency, which can lead to prejudice. In the past 20 years Germany has seen a rise in the number of Neonazis and right extremists. The increase is not that large, but nonetheless significant. This is a trend not just in Germany, but in America and many other countries as well. It's easy to feel too disconnected from the past, to let small instances of anti-semitism and racism slide and think that something like the Holocaust could never happen again. But it can. Therefore, I think it's important for everybody, not just the Germans, to remember the Holocaust, and, beyond that, actively work to counter prejudice in all forms, so that such a horror truly will never happen again



The following pictures are from Dachau, which my dad and I visited when we were in Munich in March:


Arbeit Macht Frei: symbol of the lies and cruelty of the Nazis


the Appellplatz



where the barracks were



memorials erected by various faiths on the Dachau grounds



the camp border; "Think about how we died here" (entrance to the crematorium)




Holocaust memorial sculpture

Saturday, August 8, 2009

"It's been a long road, gettin' from there to here..."

"...it's been a long time, but my time is finally here."

It's been a long journey through this semester abroad, but my stay in Germany is finally at an end. In 16 hours and 22 minutes my plane will be taking off (well, as long as there isn't a delay), taking me away from Germany for at least a year. There have been plenty of ups (traveling, meeting new friends, spending time with Pascal) and downs (tooth fiasco, bureaucratic headaches, a touch of homesickness), but on the whole the 7 months here were fantastic. Although the timing of my study abroad program meant I had to give up a few things, like working this summer (hello, empty bank account!) and going on trips with my family, I am so grateful that I had this opportunity and only wish I could somehow relive it all again.

In case there's anybody still reading this thing, there will be a few final posts within the next month. A couple will include random pictures and discuss some cultural topics. And since near the beginning of my stay I wrote a post entitled "Things I Miss about America", I figure it's only fair to conclude the blog with "Things I Miss about Germany".

But in the meantime I'll be trying to cram as much quality time with family and friends in Spokane into a 2-week period as possible. Wish me a safe and delay-free flight!

Friday, July 17, 2009

Castles, castles, castles

Germany has got to have the highest number of castles per capita of any nation, because these things are all over the place. Any German town worth its salt has got at least one, preferably multiple. I'm on the subject of castles, because two weekends ago my friend Marie (the one I visited in Copenhagen in April) came to Tuebingen for a few days to see everybody again. So we took a couple day trips while she was here; on Saturday (the 4th) to Heidelberg and then on Sunday to Burg (Castle) Hohenzollern.

Heidelberg is a beautiful city, and it's easy to see why it's so popular with tourists--and it's got a very famous castle, or technically, ruins of a castle. The vibe of the town reminded be a lot of Tuebingen, but Heidelberg is at least twice as big, so it was a little bit more happening. I think I would rank it as my 3rd-favorite German city, after Berlin and Koeln.

the Neckar (way bigger here than it is in Tuebingen)






views of the Alte Bruecke and the Altstadt



we did a little hiking on the Philosophenweg ("Philosphers' Wag"). Lesson learned? we're out of shape and I have short arms






crossing the Alte Bruecke ("Old Bridge") into the old town; crowded!; there was some festival going on, complete with grilled sausage, an oompah band, and of course, beer.



we went into this souvenir shop and there was a huge section devoted to Christmas (though it was only the beginning of July)



Schloss Heidelberg



views from the castle



some of the castle facade; finally, champagne glasses big enough for mom!


the castle walls




the monkey you're supposed to rub for good luck; the best umbrella in the world


the obligatory tired/sleeping in train photos


Burg Hohenzollern (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hohenzollern_Castle) is a medieval castle on top of this hill/mountain near a village about 30 minutes south of Tuebingen. It's a little bit of a hike to get up to the castle itself, but the views of the surrounding countryside are incredible, and it's pretty obvious why some old noble decided to build his castle there!


pictures from the bus ride


when we got there there was literally a fleet of these Smart Cars and I have no idea why; hiking up to the castle; DREW


the ramparts; hi Zsofia!; Ade pondering the castle










Marie taking a picture; Drew looking threatening with Ade's duck umbrella



the main court/square of the castle



what, do they put Evian in the water bowls or something?; in the chapel



going through the little museum in the casemates




the village of Hechingen; a wisp of cloud that got stuck on the hillside; "die Frauen"



don't fall off the wall!


goodbye Burg Hohenzollern!


Dinner at Zsofia's; Marie and Ade hanging out in the park



When we got back to Tuebingen there were tons of people boating in the Stocherkaehne (those boats that are being punted with a long pole). The river was super-muddy because of the rains though.


Overall a great weekend: it was so nice to see Marie again, and I was also happy that I got to do a little more traveling and exploring around southern Germany. The only bad part was that Marie and I both suffered some kind of weird bug bite that made our ankle swell enormously, making some of the walking around a little difficult. But we survived!

The next weekend I went to visit Pascal, but we actually ended up going with his parents to go see his grandparents (the ones he and I visited back in January). It was a nice weekend, nice to see his grandparents of again, and nice to eat some good food, but of course I didn't accomplish as much work as I wanted to, so when I got back to Tuebingen I was a little stressed since I had 2 tests on Wednesday. But they went fine, and now all I have left is 2 more tests, research for my 20-page essay, submitting the IRB petition for my Senior Thesis Project (at WashU), completing all necessary paperwork relating to exmatrikulation and declaring the end of my residency in Germany, and packing up all of my belongings. Did I mention that all that needs to be accomplished within the next 10 days? That's right, only 10 more days in Tuebingen, then 13 days with Pascal, and then I'll (finally) be heading back to the US. I can't believe the time has gone by so quickly! I'm half in denial that I'm leaving, half already waxing nostalgic, and half anxious to get home. My emotions are so conflicting that I need 3 halves to describe them! But that's always the way it is at life's turning points: something must be left behind in order to enter into something new. And in the fall I have my senior year, my apartment with Elyse, seeing my friends again, and yes, even classes and my thesis project at WashU to look forward to. Now if it would only stop raining so I could actually enjoy my last few weeks here! German weather is one thing I will not miss, that's for sure!